Welcome back to the Dee’s Geckos blog! If you have fallen in love with the prehistoric looks, incredible patterns, and handleable personalities of Gargoyle Geckos (Rhacodactylus auriculatus), you might be considering taking the next step: breeding them.
Breeding gargoyle geckos is an incredibly rewarding experience, but it requires patience, preparation, and a strict commitment to the health of your animals. Because gargoyle geckos are more territorial and prone to aggression than other New Caledonian species, a careful approach is vital. In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through everything you need to know to successfully breed gargoyle geckos, from choosing your pair to caring for the hatchlings.
1. Selecting and Preparing Your Breeding Pair
Before introducing two geckos, you must ensure they are mature, healthy, and properly sized.
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Age and Weight: Females should be at least 2 years old and weigh a minimum of 40 to 45 grams. Breeding a female that is too young or too small can lead to severe health complications, such as egg-binding (dystocia) or life-threatening calcium crashes. Males can breed slightly younger (around 1.5 to 2 years old) and should weigh at least 35 to 40 grams.
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Health and Structure: Only breed geckos with excellent bone structure and genetics. Avoid breeding individuals with kinks in their tails or spines, underbites, or signs of past Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD).
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The "Cooling" Period: In the wild, gargoyle geckos experience seasonal shifts. To stimulate breeding behavior, breeders introduce a "cooling" period during the winter months (typically late autumn to January). Lower the ambient temperatures by a few degrees (low 70s°F during the day, high 60s°F at night) and decrease misting frequency. This cycle also gives females a necessary break to regenerate their calcium reserves.
2. The Introduction and Mating Process
When spring arrives, raise the temperatures back to their normal baseline (75°F–78°F) and increase misting to simulate the rainy breeding season.
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How to Introduce Them: Because gargoyle geckos are highly territorial, do not place a female into a male's established enclosure, as this can trigger an aggressive territorial defense. Instead, introduce the male into the female’s enclosure, or move both geckos simultaneously into a completely neutral, freshly cleaned tank.
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What to Expect (The Rough Stuff): Gargoyle gecko mating can look violent to a beginner. Vocalizations (chirping, squeaking) and rustling are entirely normal. The male will often bite the female’s neck, crests, or tail to hold her in place.
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When to Intervene: Minor skin scratches or even tail loss can happen. However, you must monitor the introduction closely. If you see relentless chasing, deep wounding, or rolling fights, separate them immediately. Gargoyle geckos should be housed separately after mating occurs; they are solitary animals and should not be left together permanently.
3. Setting Up the Laying Box
A gravid (pregnant) female will need a safe, humid place to deposit her eggs. Place a lay box in her enclosure roughly 2 to 3 weeks after a successful introduction.
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The Container: A plastic shoebox or a large Tupperware container with a 2-inch entry hole cut into the lid works perfectly. Ensure the edges of the hole are smooth.
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The Medium: Fill the box with 3 to 4 inches of damp substrate. A mix of organic peat moss, coco coir, or vermiculite works great. The medium should be damp like a wrung-out sponge—if it is soaking wet or muddy, the eggs can drown.
4. Egg Laying and Incubation
A female gargoyle gecko will typically lay a clutch of two eggs roughly 30 to 45 days after a successful mating. She can retain sperm and continue to lay a new clutch every 4 to 6 weeks throughout the season, producing anywhere from 4 to 8 clutches total.
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Finding the Eggs: You will know she has laid when she suddenly looks much thinner and you notice freshly dug-up substrate. Carefully search through the medium with your fingers.
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The Golden Rule of Reptile Eggs: DO NOT flip or rotate the eggs. Within hours of laying, the embryo attaches to the inside wall of the shell. Turning the egg upside down can detach and kill the embryo. Gently mark the top of the egg with a pencil or marker before moving it so you always know which side must face up.
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Incubation Setup: Place the eggs in an airtight container (like a plastic deli cup) filled with damp perlite or vermiculite mixed at a 1:1 ratio by weight with water. Nestled the eggs slightly into the medium, but do not completely bury them.
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Temperature & Timeline: Gargoyle gecko eggs can be incubated at room temperature.
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70°F – 74°F: Slower incubation (roughly 80–100 days), which often results in larger hatchlings and a higher ratio of females.
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75°F – 78°F: Faster incubation (roughly 60–75 days), resulting in a more balanced mix of genders.
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Avoid temperatures above 80°F, as high heat can cause severe developmental defects.
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5. Post-Laying Female Care
Laying eggs depletes a female's body of nutrients. To keep her healthy, dust her live insects (such as gut-loaded crickets or dubia roaches) with Calcium containing D3 at every feeding. Ensure she always has access to high-quality Crested Gecko Diet (CGD), prioritizing specialized breeding or "growth and breeding" formulas that contain elevated calcium and protein levels.
6. Hatchling Care: Welcoming the Next Generation
When the incubation period ends, the tiny hatchlings will use their egg tooth to slit the shell and emerge.
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First Enclosure: Keep newborns individually in small, simple setups, such as a 6-quart plastic tub or a small kritter keeper. Use damp paper towels as the substrate so you can easily monitor their droppings and ensure they are hydrating properly. Provide plastic plants or cork bark pieces for security.
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Feeding: Hatchlings will not eat for the first few days while they finish absorbing their yolk sac and undergo their first shed. After 3 to 5 days, offer small drops of high-quality gecko diet in a shallow lid. After a few weeks, you can introduce small, appropriately sized, calcium-dusted insects to boost their growth.
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Hydration: Hatchlings dry out much faster than adults. Mist their enclosures lightly twice a day, ensuring they always have fresh water droplets to drink from the sides of the enclosure or decorations.
Final Thoughts
Breeding gargoyle geckos is a major responsibility that requires time, space, and a commitment to animal welfare. However, watching a healthy, beautifully patterned gecko hatch from an egg you carefully incubated makes the entire process incredibly rewarding. Always prioritize the health of your breeding adults, give your females a proper winter rest, and enjoy the journey!
Are you looking for high-quality gargoyle gecko genetics to start your next breeding project? Check out our available geckos right here at deesgeckos.com!
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